April 12, 2013 |
Like so many Yiddish words, schmaltz has mixed connotations - it can be used to describe something fine and expensive or something corny and over-the-top sentimental. But for many cooks, its true meaning lies on the palate. "If you don't use schmaltz, your food will be flavorless," says Russ Farer, general manager at Schlesinger's Deli in Center City. "It's that simple. " Schmaltz, of course, is the rendered fat of chicken (or goose) that European Jews adopted for kosher cookery in place of butter when tallow from beef proved prohibitively expensive.
April 11, 2013
Makes about 18 cookies 3/4 cup schmaltz, well chilled or frozen 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 1 large egg 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher salt 11/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 cups old-fashioned oats (not quick-cooking) 2/3 cup dried cherries 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Cut the schmaltz into chunks and put it, along with both sugars, into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle.
November 15, 2012
Makes 6 to 8 servings For the dough: 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces and chilled 6 tablespoons vegetable shortening, cut in 1/2-inch pieces and chilled 8-10 tablespoons ice water For the filling: 1/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch...
January 14, 2011 |
The posters for "Blue Valentine" describe the movie as "a love story," and in case you haven't heard, that's a very bitter irony. The love story depicted in the widely lauded "Blue Valentine" is the kind that often ends up on "Dateline," with one spouse missing and the other being interviewed in an orange jumpsuit. Which is to say, fraught. With anger, recrimination and a bitter reconsideration of love itself - it isn't an illusion, it certainly has a very short shelf-life, while the misery it leaves behind lasts forever.
October 6, 2010
Here's some of the stuff you're likely to find during a visit to Scotland. Haggis: Scottish dish tastes and looks like dark meat oatmeal. It's actually not as bad as, say, blood pudding. Secret of its delicious taste? Sheep guts (heart, liver, lung). Scottish money: It's the same pound sterling denomination as in England, but it's printed with different pictures. Scottish brogue: Not hard to understand unless you're talking to footballers or find yourself in Glasgow.
November 2, 2008 |
Perhaps it is the packaging, John McCann's steel-cut Irish Oatmeal, unrepentently retro in that black-and-white, bemedaled tuxedo of a tin, as sturdy - and weighty - as a quart of old-time wood putty. Philosophically, of course, it presents a dilemma: The carbon footprint of hauling oats a few thousand food miles from green County Kildare cannot, one assumes, be very dainty. But then again, there is so much that can (and shortly will) be said in its favor, not only nutritionally, for sure, but the fact that no animals were harmed in its testing or manufacture: These oats are as whole-food and wholesome as a tinned whole food can be. They are more costly, no question, than Quaker Oats, my childhood stalwart.
August 7, 2002 |
Remember the Chipwich craze? Back in the '80s, folks couldn't get enough of the ice cream sandwich that packed a giant scoop of vanilla between two doughy chocolate chip cookies. These days, people still grab Chipwiches from freezer cases. But baker Roz Bratt, who owns a cozy 5th Street pastry shop called Homemade Goodies, thinks a couple of her buttery oatmeal raisin cookies would make a great homemade alternative to the familiar treat. Roz says vanilla ice cream tastes great with her cookies, but you might want to try raspberry sherbet or rum raisin.
June 13, 2002 |
On the night before it blooms, I feel like I have swallowed a tennis ball. I yearn for mashed potatoes, but feel too achy to make them. I sleep fitfully, and dream weird dreams. By the next morning, my head hurts, my voice sounds alien, and my eyes burn. I am about to star in my own version of The Killer Cold. I descend the stairs wishing I were 6 years old again, with my mother waiting for me in the kitchen, ready to spoil me with hugs and hot oatmeal. Instead, as I stagger over to boil water for tea I am reminded that the back burner is busted, that there is no bread to toast and spread with jelly (always an indulgence on sick days)
December 31, 1999 |
As this blue-green ball we reside on completes yet another orbit around the sun, it is a logical time for reflection. I'll take you on a trip - a quick peek at the past 12 months. If you ever wondered what a desert was like, last summer was for you. Notable for brown lawns, dying shrubs and "John Bolaris held hostage," the drought of 1999 proved that no matter how serious the catastrophe, TV news could bore you with it inside of a week. After the pain of a Senate impeachment trial, Arlen Specter helped our scandal-weary country come to terms with the acquittal of President Clinton with his "Single Stain Theory.
March 10, 1999 |
Amazon Juice on the move Not even a year old, Amazon Juice, 103 S. 18th St., is branching out. The lease is already signed for a second location at 19th and Market streets, and co-owners Alan and Larry Kabinoff hope to open two others - one at Penn and another in the Jefferson Hospital area around 11th and Walnut streets - by June. "We want to dominate the Philadelphia market and capture the good locations," said Alan. Brother Larry, an optometrist, founded Philadelphia Vision Centers with about 20 locations in the Philly area before HMOs drastically cut eyeglass reimbursements.