March 8, 2009 |
Before he left Philadelphia and returned to Cyprus a few years ago, chef Konstantinos Pitsillides had the charming habit of leaving the occasional late-night tirade on my voice mail. The simple pleasures of traditional foods were forever being snubbed, he'd grumble, in favor of "trendy fusion" fakery. The slow-braised virtues of secondary cuts and nose-to-tail cookery - the joys of goat, game, and ancient grains - were being ignored in our filet mignon culture. I never took it personally.
April 13, 1994 |
ALL THE NEWS THAT FITS - ALL THE BABY THAT FITS, TOO Rush hour got a little more crowded on a subway platform yesterday morning when Abigail Vidal, 17, unexpectedly went into labor and gave birth to a daughter - midwifed by transit workers and the New York Times. "She was going to have the baby, and she wasn't going to wait for a more convenient time or place," said Charles Seaton, a New York City Transit spokesman. After Vidal went into labor, a transit worker summoned a supervisor.
February 15, 1991 |
Cheap Eats usually bypasses anything that requires more than a 10-dollar bill. But when Serrano began offering a four-course Spanish regional dinner for $12.95 on Monday nights, that sounded like a suitably frugal feast. Actually, Serrano is a bargain-hunter's find on any night. This cozy restaurant on 2nd Street near Market has an international menu that includes no-beans Texas-style chili, Mexican fajitas, Middle Eastern baba ghanoush, Hungarian chicken, a French picnic plate and seafood with Oriental accents.
November 17, 2004 |
They were the new kids on the underworld block. More important, federal and local authorities said, they were the wave of the future. Based in Northeast Philadelphia - some, in fact, had attended George Washington High School - they called themselves "KGB," a not-so-subtle reference to a time and a place that their parents, at least, remembered. "The KGB was a crime wave in Northeast Philadelphia," said Assistant U.S. Attorney Andrea Foulkes, one of two prosecutors who spearheaded the case against the organization two years ago. Tracked by the FBI's Eurasian Organized Crime Squad, KGB was described as a Russian-emigre criminal enterprise that dealt in drugs, extortion and robbery.
June 19, 1995 |
The Chicago Blackhawks have called a news conference for noon today, perhaps to allow coach Darryl Sutter a chance to say goodbye. Sutter, who led the Blackhawks to the Western Conference finals in his third season with the team, has been mulling whether to continue in the high- pressure job or devote more time to his family. Blackhawks owner William Wirtz said last night the team offered Sutter a contract extension before the playoffs, but would not discuss Sutter's plans.
August 25, 1987 |
THE OCTOPUS'S GARDEN, 414 Long Beach Blvd., Surf City, N.J. (609-494-7205) (8/21/87) $$$ This casual, family-style shore spot is one of the most popular restaurants on Long Beach Island. Also one of the few to take reservations and to be open all year. The uncomplicated fare is mixed but there are some recommendables and the desserts are surprisingly good: Shrimp tempura ($13.95), sauteed seafood combination ($16.95), pecan pie ($2.75), ice cream pie ($3.25). SNICKERS, 96th and Harbor Square, Stone Harbor, N.J., (609)
March 12, 2006 |
What it is: The Newtown Square shop sells fresh and ready-to-cook seafood, including cold-water South African rock lobster tails, and side dishes of pepper hash and macaroni salad. What we like: You can buy octopus ($3.98 per pound), wild Alaskan sockeye salmon ($12.98 per pound), the popular winter catch of boneless shad ($10.98 per pound), and the perfect seasoning and cooking sauce. On request, you can receive cooking instructions from the friendly and knowledgeable staff. Among the store's most popular items are Pacific King farm-raised salmon for $15.98 per pound and baby flounder, wild caught in New England, for $13.98 per pound.
March 24, 2012
Casa de Mi Padre A goofball Spanish-language parody of the cheesily overdramatic telenovela form, with Will Ferrell as the dim-witted son of a Mexican rancher, caught up in romance, sibling rivalry, drug-dealing, and some mystical communion with a talking white lion. R Jiro Dreams of Sushi Wonderful doc about an octogenarian who serves octopus (and other raw fish) in an impeccable hole-in-the-wall on a Tokyo subway concourse. Accorded the top 3-star ranking from the Michelin guide, Jiro Ono's Sukiyabashi Jiro is no ordinary eatery, and its humble, bespectacled proprietor no ordinary man. A study of a life devoted to work, to simplicity, to purity, and to the quest for perfection.
April 12, 2012 |
Benny Lai was already deep into the research for Grill Fish Cafe in West Philly, grazing the coast of Vietnam with his family, before he realized what his vision for the old Vietnam Cafe space was becoming: an Asian take on Greek Dmitri's, simple seafood plates with a light Vietnamese touch. There's grilled octopus and crispy shrimp (but not D's "pil-pil"-style; the garlicky pepper-and-lime dipping sauce here is cut, like Viet coffee, with a dash of sweet condensed milk.) My favorites, though, were the kind of affordable, straightforward entrees that make normally pricey seafood accessible for neighborhood regulars - crispy flounder streaked with spicy ginger and scallion oil; tilapia simmered in cilantro tomato sauce, and this generous slice of Scottish salmon, marked on the grill then splashed with gingered soy and fresh mint.
April 11, 2014 |
WHAT'S 5-foot-2, has swans-a-two, and every dude from Dr. Seu-ss? The Jersey-made cake that won Best in Show in City of Hope's 10th annual "Let Them Eat Cake" competition, that's what. Monday evening, Haddonfield's Sweet T's Bakeshop took home the blue ribbon (really a blue glass sculpture and generous gift basket) for its colorful, quirky and purposely askew take on this year's fantasy theme, beating out 20 other pro and student-made over-the-top pastries. The competition was friendly, but fierce: fairies vs. gnomes, happy brides vs. Mad Hatters, the "Hunger Games" vs. a giant orange octopus.