February 5, 2009 |
In winter, I favor one-pot soups, the kind you might find while traveling through the countryside of Italy or France: unfussy combinations of beans, coarsely cut vegetables, and herbs, whose rich flavors and abundant texture coalesce into something akin to a stew. They provide a kind of comfort and nourishment found in no other food. I find myself returning often to a simple strategy for a basic bean soup that is delicious as is, but even better as the base for further embellishments: a white bean soup infused with thyme and rosemary, served with a variety of accompaniments that can be spooned into the center of each serving.
February 14, 2013
Makes 8 to 10 servings 1 onion, peeled and quartered 6 ounces (approximate- ly 11 slices) bacon or pancetta Small handful fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups lentils, brown or green, rinsed 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, plus 12/3 cups cold water to rinse out 2 bay leaves 21/2 quarts chicken or ...
May 5, 2011 |
Giuseppina Carrara is what they refer to in Italy as a buongustaio - literally a "good taster. " "She loves to eat," says chef Jeff Michaud, speaking of his Italian mother-in-law, whose home cooking inspires many of his dishes at Osteria. "She's not into the dainty. When I put the francobolli on the table [at Osteria], she says, 'Come on Jeffrey. I want a plate of pasta, so give me a plate of pasta,' " says Michaud, chef partner at Osteria. Michaud, 33, met Carrara in 2004 about a month after he started dating her daughter Claudia, a bella donna with big brown eyes who walked into the restaurant where he was cooking in Bergamo, Italy.
April 24, 2008
Makes 2 servings 1. Place each chicken breast between two large pieces of plastic wrap. Using the flat side of a meat mallet or heavy skillet, pound each breast until it is uniformly about one-quarter-inch thick. Season each piece with one-fourth teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Place each breast on top of a large piece of plastic wrap or wax paper. 2. In a large skillet, heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chicken, one piece at a time, and saute until golden-brown, about 21/2 minutes on the first side and 30 seconds on the other.
April 13, 1987 |
AMERICAN BISTRO, Route 420, Morton (543-3033); 1/2 (reviewed 4/10/87) $$$ Situated above a formal-wear store, perilously close to a railroad crossing, sits a friendly little spot serving up Americn nouvelle cuisine. Execution doesn't always live up to expectation, but there's still plenty to recommend, such as lobster bisque ($3.75), muscovy duck ($14), roast pheasant ($17), bourbon shrimp ($7), and homemade ice cream and sorbets ($3) ECCO, 1700 Lombard St. (735-8070) . 1/2 (4/3/87)
May 20, 1998 |
If it weren't for its outstanding reputation, I would not have been particularly excited as I approached the front door of Food For Thought. Tucked into the corner of the Marlton Square Shopping center, the restaurant's home since moving from much smaller quarters in Haddonfield a year and a half ago, there's no apparent reason to give Food For Thought a second thought. Until you get inside. What awaits the hungry diner is a lovely BYOB eatery with a creative menu and very professional wait staff.
June 28, 2012
3½ pounds brisket with deckle or second cut 1½ pounds kidney fat 10 slices of pancetta, sauteed crisp Aged Vermont cheddar cheese 10 kaiser rolls 1. With a knife, cut the brisket and kidney fat into ¾" to 1" strips (or no bigger than the diameter of the grinder you are using), place the strips of meat flat on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and put in the freezer for 45 minutes to an hour, or until firm but not frozen. 2. Using the meat grinder's fine (1/8-inch)
March 22, 2012 |
This variation on the traditional pasta carbonara dish used crispy salami instead of pancetta or bacon as a topper. I added asparagus to the recipe as an ode to to spring. Spaghetti Carbonara With Asparagus and Crispy Salami Makes 4 servings 2 large eggs 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (plus more for serving) 1/4 cup half-and-half 3/4 pound dry spaghetti 1/2 pound trimmed asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 pound salami, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips 3 cloves garlic, peeled, chopped 1/4 cup white wine Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup chopped parsley for garnish 1. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, Parmesan cheese, and half-and-half.
June 17, 2004 |
Like fresh tomato sauce, pesto is ideally made in summer, when basil thrives on warmth and abundant sunshine. The dark-green basil sauce is pungent enough to enliven a banquet table of dishes, whether it's drizzled over a salad of sliced ripe tomatoes, tossed with hot pasta, spread over pizza, brushed onto grilled chicken, or slathered onto roasted potatoes, bread or bread sticks. A bit of pesto can turn even a simple soup into a magnificent dish like the minestrone served in Italy's seaport city of Genoa.
October 7, 2007 |
Life is a bottomless pasta bowl for fans of Philadelphia's Italian BYOBs. Hardly a week goes by without yet another new trattoria turning on the lights and firing up an espresso machine. I expected the pace to slacken a couple of years ago. But it hasn't, even if some of the more mundane efforts prove unequivocally that there is such a thing as too much fried calamari and penne pomodoro. There have been a few notable stars, though, cooking from the heart of the trend. And chef Davide and Kathryn Faenza have rightfully won a strong following for their unique interpretations of regional southern Italian home cooking at their tiny L'Angolo in South Philadelphia.