February 5, 2009 |
In winter, I favor one-pot soups, the kind you might find while traveling through the countryside of Italy or France: unfussy combinations of beans, coarsely cut vegetables, and herbs, whose rich flavors and abundant texture coalesce into something akin to a stew. They provide a kind of comfort and nourishment found in no other food. I find myself returning often to a simple strategy for a basic bean soup that is delicious as is, but even better as the base for further embellishments: a white bean soup infused with thyme and rosemary, served with a variety of accompaniments that can be spooned into the center of each serving.
May 5, 2011 |
Giuseppina Carrara is what they refer to in Italy as a buongustaio - literally a "good taster. " "She loves to eat," says chef Jeff Michaud, speaking of his Italian mother-in-law, whose home cooking inspires many of his dishes at Osteria. "She's not into the dainty. When I put the francobolli on the table [at Osteria], she says, 'Come on Jeffrey. I want a plate of pasta, so give me a plate of pasta,' " says Michaud, chef partner at Osteria. Michaud, 33, met Carrara in 2004 about a month after he started dating her daughter Claudia, a bella donna with big brown eyes who walked into the restaurant where he was cooking in Bergamo, Italy.
February 14, 2013
Makes 8 to 10 servings 1 onion, peeled and quartered 6 ounces (approximate- ly 11 slices) bacon or pancetta Small handful fresh parsley 1 clove garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups lentils, brown or green, rinsed 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, plus 12/3 cups cold water to rinse out 2 bay leaves 21/2 quarts chicken or ...
April 24, 2008
Makes 2 servings 1. Place each chicken breast between two large pieces of plastic wrap. Using the flat side of a meat mallet or heavy skillet, pound each breast until it is uniformly about one-quarter-inch thick. Season each piece with one-fourth teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Place each breast on top of a large piece of plastic wrap or wax paper. 2. In a large skillet, heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chicken, one piece at a time, and saute until golden-brown, about 21/2 minutes on the first side and 30 seconds on the other.
April 13, 1987 |
AMERICAN BISTRO, Route 420, Morton (543-3033); 1/2 (reviewed 4/10/87) $$$ Situated above a formal-wear store, perilously close to a railroad crossing, sits a friendly little spot serving up Americn nouvelle cuisine. Execution doesn't always live up to expectation, but there's still plenty to recommend, such as lobster bisque ($3.75), muscovy duck ($14), roast pheasant ($17), bourbon shrimp ($7), and homemade ice cream and sorbets ($3) ECCO, 1700 Lombard St. (735-8070) . 1/2 (4/3/87)
May 20, 1998 |
If it weren't for its outstanding reputation, I would not have been particularly excited as I approached the front door of Food For Thought. Tucked into the corner of the Marlton Square Shopping center, the restaurant's home since moving from much smaller quarters in Haddonfield a year and a half ago, there's no apparent reason to give Food For Thought a second thought. Until you get inside. What awaits the hungry diner is a lovely BYOB eatery with a creative menu and very professional wait staff.
June 28, 2012
3½ pounds brisket with deckle or second cut 1½ pounds kidney fat 10 slices of pancetta, sauteed crisp Aged Vermont cheddar cheese 10 kaiser rolls 1. With a knife, cut the brisket and kidney fat into ¾" to 1" strips (or no bigger than the diameter of the grinder you are using), place the strips of meat flat on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and put in the freezer for 45 minutes to an hour, or until firm but not frozen. 2. Using the meat grinder's fine (1/8-inch)
March 22, 2012 |
This variation on the traditional pasta carbonara dish used crispy salami instead of pancetta or bacon as a topper. I added asparagus to the recipe as an ode to to spring. Spaghetti Carbonara With Asparagus and Crispy Salami Makes 4 servings 2 large eggs 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (plus more for serving) 1/4 cup half-and-half 3/4 pound dry spaghetti 1/2 pound trimmed asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 pound salami, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips 3 cloves garlic, peeled, chopped 1/4 cup white wine Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup chopped parsley for garnish 1. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, Parmesan cheese, and half-and-half.
December 30, 2013 |
This was the year of the out-of-towners, as chefs from around the country arrived to make this city their new home. And Philadelphians responded in kind, hungrily embracing these fresh talents. Among the brightest were a pair of stars from New York, Peter Serpico and my Chef of the Year, Eli Kulp, formerly of Torrisi Italian Specialties, who took an already great restaurant in Fork and, with owner Ellen Yin, helped bring it to an even more relevant level. His knack for unexpected combos and rustic techniques (offbeat pastas, fermenting, charcuterie)
June 17, 2004 |
Like fresh tomato sauce, pesto is ideally made in summer, when basil thrives on warmth and abundant sunshine. The dark-green basil sauce is pungent enough to enliven a banquet table of dishes, whether it's drizzled over a salad of sliced ripe tomatoes, tossed with hot pasta, spread over pizza, brushed onto grilled chicken, or slathered onto roasted potatoes, bread or bread sticks. A bit of pesto can turn even a simple soup into a magnificent dish like the minestrone served in Italy's seaport city of Genoa.