Perrier

Mention water in Chester County these days, and the name Perrier is sure to follow. Such was the case yesterday, when the county commissioners were asked to approve a $245,300 contract between the county's Water Resources Authority and the U.S. Geological Survey that will continue long-term surface and groundwater research projects in the county. Before they signed off on the contract, the commissioners wanted to be sure it included information that could be used in what is shaping up to be a precedent-setting battle between South Coventry Township and the Perrier Group of America.

Chef Georges Perrier says his plans to close the iconic Le Bec-Fin are off. While champagne corks popped as part of the New Year's Eve revelry inside his French restaurant on Walnut Street, Perrier gave patrons something else to celebrate as he spread the word that Le Bec-Fin would remain open and that he was granting a partnership to his chef, Nicholas Elmi, 30. Perrier, 67, said in an interview that the restaurant, a French idiom for "the good...

THE GEORGES PERRIER era at Le Bec-Fin will end Saturday night. Amid the hushed white-tablecloth grandeur of the dining room of the Walnut Street institution, beneath enormous crystal chandeliers, Perrier addressed several dozen staff members before dinner service yesterday to introduce Le Bec-Fin's new owner, Nicolas Fanucci. "I never thought this day would happen," Perrier said, his voice breaking, his eyes welling with tears. "I'm 70 years old [actually, 68]. I just can't do this anymore.

Forget about the quest to regain that elusive fifth Mobil star. Don't worry about concocting the perfect sauce bordelaise or the smoothest creme brulee. Philadelphia's premier chef, Georges Perrier, is on a different mission these days: championing the rights of the handicapped. Four weeks after falling down a flight of stairs at a friend's home and breaking both his heels, the restaurateur revered by many and feared by some finds himself in a new position - seated, in a wheelchair.

It's hard to keep Georges Perrier out of the kitchen. He sauntered into the third-floor cooking facility at West Catholic High School like he owned it. In some ways, he did. On Wednesday morning, Perrier, owner of Le Bec-Fin, was at the West Philly high school to hand over an oversize check. It was made out for $75,000, the French chef's contribution to the school's existing Culinary Arts program. "I'm sorry I'm late! I couldn't find the door!" Perrier blared in his thick French accent, rushing in. Everyone laughed and clapped, and after a few words of gratitude, Perrier headed straight to the stove.

Down deep in its exhaustive account of the Great Benzene-Laced Perrier Fiasco, the New York Times stumbled onto an insight - or apercu, as the people at Perrier might say - that caught the essence of the whole sorry mess. "As yuppies poured their Perrier down the drain and debated the merits of Pellegrino water versus Ram-Losa," the reporter noted, "they wondered whether the recall (of Perrier) might be a defining moment. Would they finally learn that life, despite all attempts to control it, can never be risk-free?"

The Book and the Cook, 1999 edition (the 15th), begins officially at 5 p.m. Friday with the "Taste of the Festival" opening of the Book and the Cook Fair at the Convention Center. For the first time, the fair will initiate the 10-day culinary event. The festivities (for a $25 ticket) will include presentation of the Philadelphia Toque Award to cookbook author Marcella Hazan, and demonstrations by wine and food experts including French chefs Jacques Pepin and Georges Perrier. On Saturday evening, Perrier will be guest chef at the Culinary Society of Philadelphia Book and Cook Gala at the Restaurant School.

AN ATTORNEY for chef Georges Perrier has initiated legal action against the blog StaphMeal.com by filing a writ of summons in Common Pleas Court. Attorney Jonathan Cohen 's filing indicates that a complaint outlining allegations of libel and defamation could be forthcoming. The writ of summons lists John Doe as a defendant because Cohen does not know the identity of the blogger (or bloggers) behind the site. The legal action is intended in part to unmask the writers.

Modern superstitions: If you hold a bunch of arugula under your chin and your skin glows green, it's a sign that you're about to eat a very expensive salad. It's bad luck to read any book you can buy in an airport gift shop. It's even worse luck to read any novel described as "A 'Catcher in the Rye' for the '80s. " If you look in the mirror and see no reflection, it doesn't mean you're going to die, as some people used to believe, but it's a sure sign you need stronger contact lenses.

Two high-profile, chef-driven restaurants are in their opening weeks: Table 31 , the Georges Perrier-Chris Scarduzio steakhouse bistro in the Comcast Center (enter on 17th Street between JFK Boulevard and Arch Street, 215-567-7111), started dinner last week and moves into lunch shortly. Three-story layout: two-story-tall bar, dining rooms on two levels, and banquet space on the third. Dinner menu focuses on assorted meats in various sizes; range is $29 for a queen-cut prime rib to $75 for a 24-ounce porterhouse.