September 7, 2012 |
For the last several summers, Bridget Gray's job could be described as culinary curator. As part of the staff behind the food-focused fund-raiser known as Feastival, she is charged with overseeing the menu items that nearly 90 restaurants and bars will serve Wednesday. She has to keep the selections diverse, to satisfy the 700 or so patrons who are paying upward of $250 a head for the night of entertainment and cocktail-party-style nibbling at Pier 9 on the Delaware River. This third Feastival - whose participants are wrangled by restaurateurs Stephen Starr, Michael Solomonov, and Audrey Claire Taichman - is expected to raise $400,000 for the Live Arts Festival and Philly Fringe.
May 25, 2008 |
Many an ambitious young chef has gotten lost in the uncharted wilderness of fusion cooking, where the path between inspiration and incoherent nonsense is perilously narrow. One minute they're adding an Asian lacquer to their duck confit with a salsa verde flourish (a perfectly fine idea). Next thing you know, they're crumbling fried pork-skin crispies atop the chocolate gelato - an Iron Chef-like fantasy, no doubt, but one that in reality tastes as awful as it sounds. So it's no wonder the fusion trend, after a couple of decades in fierce flower, has been evolving to a more sensible ebb. The focus has shifted to updating authentic dishes with good ingredients and contemporary techniques, rather than simply grabbing a jumble of flavors out of context and reassembling them just because you can. It seems that Ben Byruch, though, has other ideas.
December 13, 2003
Math is a really, really difficult subject to master. And some students in Washington desperately need tutors. The students include Tommy DeLay, Denny Hastert and Billy Frist. They belong to an after-school club called "conservative Republicans" and have promised to be real careful in mathematics and save the country a lot of money. Like, billions and billions. Their teacher is Mr. Bush, who got alternative certification for this classroom position. He pretends to be stern, but he's really a softie.
November 15, 1992 |
For sheer friendliness, Chao Restaurant in Paoli is hard to beat. This spanking-clean little Chinese restaurant is bathed in bright fluorescent lights that dazzle almost as much as the smiles of the two sisters who own it. The owners and chef formerly ran the China Delight restaurant in nearby Devon (now run by a friend), but moved to the attractive Chestnut Village Shoppes in 1990. Like the decor, the cuisine is moderately pleasant, although dishes could benefit from more assertive seasonings.
September 27, 1987 |
Four Seasons, one of the many new Chinese restaurants that have sprung up in recent months, is not as fancy as some of its competitors, but its food is quietly appealing. Generous portions filled with a good variety of ingredients are mercifully prepared without MSG. Although no one dish stands out, the Cherry Hill restaurant is a safe bet for satisfying dining. The best dish sampled on a recent visit was House Special Soup ($5.85), a large bowl of full-bodied, homemade chicken broth crammed with half the kitchen larder - tender chicken, whole peeled shrimp, giant medallions of red- roasted pork, carrots with serrated edges, crisp snow pea pods, delicate bamboo shoots, crunchy water chestnuts, firm bok choy, Chinese cabbage, canned mushrooms (alas!
May 6, 1992 |
Pineapple adds natural sweetness and savor to spicy foods; its unique flavor is especially welcome in dishes from the cuisines where the pineapple grows. Pineapple adds something else to meat and poultry: tenderness! Fresh raw pineapple - and pineapple juice - contain an enzyme that helps break down the fibers of meat that might otherwise be tough: ultra lean beef, for example. This enzyme survives only so long as the pineapple is not cooked, canned or heat-treated, so pay special attention to making sure you use the ingredient called for in these recipes . . . don't substitute canned!
September 22, 1989 |
Chinese restaurants with takeout menus save the day when a busy family can't face another pizza, or when vacationers come home to an empty fridge. A recent post-vacation stop at Lucky Star, a year-old Chinese restaurant in an Andorra shopping center, yielded a hasty, generous and cheap dinner for two. A spring roll, a pint of soup, a cold noodle dish, two entrees, rice and two fortune cookies cost $22.59. Lucky Star will not dazzle you. It does offer a warm welcome, waits of less than 10 minutes for takeout, familiar dishes and low prices.
October 26, 2012
Ramen Boy lasted, oh, about as long as one slurp. Or so it seemed for this sleek Chinatown entry from the owners of Yakitori Boy into the city's suddenly piping hot ramen scene. After a steady thrum of (justified) bad buzz on the "Yokohama-style" bowls, it closed after just five months while the owners regrouped. What a remarkable turnaround they've made in forming a new partnership with the Terakawa ramen restaurants from New York, which brought new recipes and a new chef. The cozy wood counter decor is the same, but the soups, focusing on richer tonkotsu, the cloudy broth steeped from Berkshire pork bones in the Kyushu style, are entirely more satisfying, and definitely worth another visit.
August 22, 2012 |
Philadelphia-based food service giant Aramark said today it will eliminate all pork from animals bred using gestation crates in its U.S. supply chain by 2017. In announcing the plans with the Humane Society of the United States, Aramark joins dozens of other food service companies, restaurant chains and supermarkets that have pledged to end their reliance on suppliers who house breeding pigs in confining crates their whole lives. "Aramark is proud to stand in partnership with other industry leaders and supply chain partners to transition away from gestation crates in a timely fashion," said Kathy Cacciola, Aramark's senior director of environmental sustainability.
August 10, 1988 |
Habbersett Sausage, one of the area's leading scrapple makers, is about to be sold. The manufacturer's parent company, Johnsonville Foods, of Sheboygan, Wis., should be tying up negotiations with Jones Dairy Farm, of Fort Atkinson, Wis., within a week, said Milo C. Jones, president of Jones Dairy Farm. Moving the operations of the sausage company's aged plant in Middletown Township, Delaware County, to newer facilities in Wisconsin is among the options Jones Dairy Farm is considering, Jones said yesterday.