May 15, 2015 |
On sunny weekend afternoons, in the shadow of an ornate, golden Buddhist temple, Mifflin Square in South Philadelphia is dotted with charcoal grills, chile-lacquered chicken wings, and thin-sliced fatty beef heavily seasoned with lemongrass sputtering over the coals. Women pound chilies, garlic, and dried shrimp to a paste to season the snappy unripe papaya for the lime-drenched salads they sell to passersby. This is what some people call Cambodia Town, where these authentic street foods sell for $1, and where there's an effort afoot to make the title official.
January 8, 1995 |
What's my secret for getting through a busy week and still serving healthy meals? Spending Sunday afternoon cooking soup. My grandmother kept a stockpot simmering on the back burner on Sunday afternoons. She'd add leftover vegetables during the week's cooking, fresh bits of herbs, a dash of salt. By evening she'd have a rich broth, low in fat and high in flavor. It became the substance of the next week's soup. Soups seem deceptively simple to make, but creating a truly flavorful pot is a test of any cook's skill.
February 19, 1986 |
When it's bone-chilling cold and fingertips are numb, there are few things more warming than a steaming mug of homemade soup. Sure, you say, but who has time to chop, stir and simmer for hours? The kind of soup we think of with nostalgia does indeed involve chopping, stirring and simmering for hours. But there is a way to come close without the time- consuming steps associated with traditional soupmaking. Take, for example, a package of instant soup mix. We may look on it with disdain - and with good reason.
December 27, 1993 |
Did you hear just how cold it was on Soup Sunday for the Mummers? So cold that the soup wasn't hot, that ice formed in the beer, and that the cold snap snapped banjo strings. "The cold tightens the strings on banjos. The strings lose their flexibility and tend to snap - like this one just did," explained Jack Brennan, a banjo player for the Fralinger String Band, as he made an emergency repair. Bill Bowen Jr., Fralinger's captain, said: "No matter how cold, we have to drill outside so our guys get a good feel for the street.
February 16, 2012
Little Pumpkin has grown up so much in the last seven years, it received an upgrade to three bells last week. The tiny BYO's dining room has undergone a handsome makeover, with salvaged planks on the wall, antique tin on the ceiling, and a couple fewer seats, giving the remaining 26 more breathing room. But it's the addition of talented chef de cuisine Christopher Kearse to co-owner Ian Moroney's kitchen that has ratcheted the culinary ambition here to new highs - and a surprisingly elegant embrace of molecular gastronomy.
March 14, 2013
Makes 8 servings 1/4 cup olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 3 carrots, peeled and chopped 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 5 thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf 2 teaspoons salt 3 cups water 1 cup broccoli florets 3 medium zucchini, cut into small dice 1 can (15.5 ounce) diced tomatoes 2 cups kale, ribs removed, and coarsely chopped Two cubes of chicken bouillon, or more to taste 1 can (15.5 ounces) cannellini beans, with liquid Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving 1. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat.
December 3, 1986 |
A reader who spent his honeymoon in Charleston, S.C., asked for a recipe for She-Crab Soup, one of that city's specialties. Here it is. SHE-CRAB SOUP 1 small onion, minced 4 tablespoons butter 1 pound crab meat (about 12 crabs) 1 quart milk 2 cups light cream 1/4 teaspoon each mace and white pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1/4 cup dry sherry 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup orange crab roe Rind of 1 lemon, grated Saute onion gently in the butter, add crab meat, and set aside.
April 15, 1990 |
Some long-ago book told me to pronounce pho, the Vietnamese word for a sustaining beef-and-rice noodle soup, as far. Because so many of the Vietnamese that I meet in restaurants don't contradict me when I order the far soup, I'm guessing that the book was right. I share that information because you might want to try out the pronunciation at Pho 75, a relatively new Vietnamese restaurant in the Italian Market area. Should you not, however, be aware that Pho 75 is conveniently subtitled Saigon Palace.
February 24, 1989 |
"What a perfect soup day," a young woman told her friend as they shook rain from their umbrellas and placed them in a corner by the vestibule of Van's Garden on North 11th Street. A perfect day indeed, especially when you have so many wonderful soups to choose from at this small Vietnamese restaurant. Van's Garden has been around for about three years. It's a basic-looking place that offers little in the way of interesting decor. It looks much the way the old Chinatown eateries used to look - a deep rectangle filled with tables.
January 10, 2010 |
A curious gust of chestnut soups has settled in this season, without apparent rhyme or, well, who needs a reason, overstaying the normal autumn run. No shared motive emerges. And sometimes stuff just happens - like the sudden uptick in local, house-made hot dogs and the remakes of, yes, scrapple (with crab, with just vegetables, and with foie gras, or partly foie gras.) At Meme, the corner spot at 22d and Spruce Streets, chef David Katz made a batch of his abidingly simple puree (just chestnuts, onion, chicken stock, and a dab of crème fraîche)