August 12, 2011
Reading deep meaning into NFL exhibition games, particularly the opening exhibition game, is like trying to find poetry scrawled on a highway underpass. The first-team players are given their cameo appearances and then hustled to the sideline, put out of reach like porcelain vases taken from the mantel when the kids have their friends over for a party. By the end - all right, by the end of the first half - the comings and goings on the field have become so jumbled and chaotic that it is difficult to tell which players the coaches want to study, which they want to punish, and which they don't really care what happens to. The obvious guys are out of danger, wearing visors and cracking jokes.
December 20, 2009 |
When you are weighing the choice between two entrees, it's never a good sign when the server leans furtively toward your ear to advise sotto voce that (surprise!) the more expensive cut of steak is a better bet. My first waiter at Parker's Prime, though, managed to elevate the hard-sell to a new level of crass. The $40 "zabuton" cut of Wagyu beef, he said, was so sublimely marbled from its famously pampered breeding, "I want to marry a Wagyu wife to feed me beer and give me massages.
September 10, 2009 |
Please welcome Elevation Burger, the latest contender for virtue-burger honors, debuting now in suburban Wynnewood, but eyeing - hungrily, one presumes - real estate in Rittenhouse Square, and in no particular order, Princeton, West Chester, Willow Grove, and Cherry Hill. It has single-handedly raised the ante in the (so to speak) greener-meat niche. Elevation Burgers are not merely fresh-ground, or all-beef, or naturally raised; they are - top this! - "100 percent organic, grass-fed, free-range beef.
September 6, 2009 |
The red-meat race to build Center City's biggest, most luxurious chophouse has dominated the dining headlines of the last year. But an insatiable devotion to grilled beef is hardly confined to the urban limits. There are already enough destinations in the suburbs that one can drive an hour in most any direction from City Hall and come upon an independent steak house of some distinction. Head north and you'll hit the retrofitted church hall of Marsha Brown's Southern grill in New Hope.
August 27, 2009 |
Win and Sutida Somboonsong, fresh off last month's opening of Azie on Main in Villanova, expect to roll out Parker's Prime steak house next week. Like all of the couple's restaurants, Parker's Prime (4755 West Chester Pike, Newtown Square, 610-353-5353) has an Asian sensibility. That is, while chef Takao Iinuma's menu is built around American-style steaks (filet, rib-eye, New York strip), some sides and sauces borrow from Japanese cuisine, such as the ginger sesame sauce on the asparagus.
July 5, 2009 |
Inside the magnificent palace of commerce that was once the First Pennsylvania Bank, diners in pinstripes order prime porterhouse steaks or sip espresso martinis at the sinuous Del Frisco's bar. Average tab: $90, including $48.95 for that 24-ounce porterhouse. Outside the building, men in polo shirts, most of them owners of local construction companies, hand out fliers that say: "Enjoy your meal. When it comes time to pay, please ask the General Manager why the bills for construction remain unpaid.
June 25, 2009 |
It's the age of the duopoly, in which two restaurant concepts share a building, a liquor license, management, and many fixed costs. While chains mostly practice this (such as McCormick & Schmick and William Douglas Steakhouse, and Blue2O and Chili's, both in Cherry Hill), an independent team is giving it a whirl across from the Willow Grove Naval Air Station in Horsham with the new naBrasa , a Brazilian steak house, and Iron Abbey , a gastropub. The site (680 N. Easton Rd.)
April 9, 2009 |
Another steak house is coming down the pike. Win and Sutida Somboonsong - who own Mikado Thai Pepper in Ardmore, Flavor in Wayne, Azie in Media, and Teikoku in Newtown Square - signed a deal for the old Roux 3 site (4755 West Chester Pike) by the United Artists cineplex in Newtown Square. Parker's Prime , a steak house named after the Somboonsongs' youngest child, Parker, will have a wine list put together by winemaker/importer Gino Razzi of Penns Woods Winery. A late summer/early fall 2009 opening is planned.
March 26, 2009 |
The team behind Radnor's 333 Belrose has ventured to a former paper mill on the banks of the Brandywine Creek with a steak house called Firecreek (20 E. Lancaster Ave., Downingtown, 610-269-6000). Opening is expected next week. Developers Tom Deignan and Kevin Silverang, partnered with chef Carlo DeMarco and Robert Donaldson, hired designer Lauren Thomsen, who used some of the mill's stone, as well as cogs and wheels, in the contemporary decor, which features an open kitchen.
March 22, 2009 |
The absurdity of blowing $100-plus-plus on a steak dinner in the depths of a near-depression is apparently not as absurd as it sounds. You wouldn't know the country is spiraling into a historic economic funk after witnessing a few meals at the new Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House. Literally hundreds of diners have been churning each night through the columned grandeur of its red-draped dining room, mowing down $89 rib steaks and $195 bottles of wine (Del Frisco's "sweet spot," according to its wine director)