December 20, 2009 |
When you are weighing the choice between two entrees, it's never a good sign when the server leans furtively toward your ear to advise sotto voce that (surprise!) the more expensive cut of steak is a better bet. My first waiter at Parker's Prime, though, managed to elevate the hard-sell to a new level of crass. The $40 "zabuton" cut of Wagyu beef, he said, was so sublimely marbled from its famously pampered breeding, "I want to marry a Wagyu wife to feed me beer and give me massages.
June 22, 1986 |
This story is dedicated to Sal, Tony, Denise, Pat and Carmine and all the gang in South Philadelphia. Yo! And maybe the next number should be dedicated to the gang in the Burg. South Philadelphia isn't the only heavy-duty Italian enclave in this part of the world. In New Jersey's capital - that's the city on the north side of the bridge spanning the Delaware with the sign that says Trenton Makes, the World Takes - there's another one: a section of town known as the Burg.
July 1, 2010
Baba Ghanoush . . . 4 Chicken With Lime and Cilantro . . . 4 Fennel and Radiccio Salad . . . 2 French Potato Salad . . . 2 Steak and Portobello Sandwich . . . 3
July 10, 2006
EVERY DAY, I pick up the paper and read about Geno's and their sign. I don't understand why people go there in the first place, not because of the sign, but because of the fatty piece of meat they call a cheese- steak. Ever hear of Steve's or Chink's? Now that's a good steak. Jim Kantner Philadelphia
July 8, 2010
Milan salad redux Under the orange umbrellas at Table 31's al fresco sibling, The Plaza Cafe, outside the Comcast Center, diners steeped in Philadelphiana can be seen smiling at the menu listing for the Milano Salad, a satisfyingly retro bowl that has passed this way before. It is quite simply - quite classically - a pile of crunchy iceberg lettuce tossed with lightened-up Russian-ish dressing, adorned with cubed tomato, hard-cooked egg, a sprinkle of peeled shrimp, and a shred of bacon - all the fun of a BLT, plus shrimp.
July 1, 2010 |
Steak, mushrooms, and sweet onions make a great, quick summer dinner. The steak, mushrooms, and onions are sautéed in the same pan. The balsamic vinegar-and-garlic marinade becomes a dipping sauce for the sandwich. Steak and Portobello Sandwich Makes 2 servings 1. Remove visible fat from steak. Mix garlic and balsamic vinegar in a self-sealing plastic bag. Add the steak and mushrooms. Marinate 10 minutes, turning bag over once. 2. Meanwhile, spray bread with olive oil and toast for one minute.
July 19, 2009 |
The gaudy theatrics of an opening-night extravaganza have become as expected as meat and potatoes for Philadelphia's new herd of luxury steak houses. But when Union Trust threw its preview bash in February, just as the economy was spiraling toward the abyss, it haughtily raised the bar to a prime new grade of crass. With showtime searchlights on Chestnut Street strafing the night, a $550 vertical rib-eye tasting for four on the menu, ice sculptures channeling rivers of vodka, and a Brink's truck making special delivery of a $29,000 bottle of Black Pearl Cognac, the bombastic debut was meant to send a message: In a city being courted by ever-grander palaces of beef, the $12.8 million, 280-seat Union Trust intended to be the grandest of them all. The soaring former bank space (and Jack Kellmer jewelry store)
July 15, 2010
You go to Bitar's in the Italian Market for top-notch gyros and kebabs, thereby avoiding the cheesesteak glut two blocks away. But when in Rome . . . . Amin Bitar says the new Bitar steak and potato sandwich wrap started as a joke, as a customer asked for a Lebanese riff on a steak sandwich. It starts with a fresh-baked pita, spread with a moderately spicy harissa mayo, and topped with thinly sliced, char-grilled sirloin steak, sauteed onions, and red and green bell peppers.
November 26, 2008 |
At a capacity of 556 over three levels, Del Frisco's Double Eagle , opening Friday at 15th and Chestnut Streets, will be Philly's biggest steak house. The centerpiece of the main floor is a 34-foot wine tower that can hold 2,484 bottles - and that's only about a third of the restaurant's potential wine storage. There are bars on the main floor and the mezzanine. Mezzanine? Old-timers may not remember one in the historic Packard Building, now known as the Grande, which was the train station in the M. Night Shyamalan flick Unbreakable . Del Frisco's (1426-28 Chestnut St., 215-246-0533)
April 4, 2010 |
Of the many suburban downtowns with main streets ready to pop, Ambler has long seemed among the more promising. There isn't much competition in the near northern burbs. And after a decade of slow but steady progress amid the quaint storefronts on Butler Pike, which saw the arrival of a casual but ambitious BYOB in the train station (Trax), a tony martini bar-steak house (Bridgets), and an Irish pub (Shanachie) for pints of stout and lively Celtic jam sessions, this was the year, it seemed, when it finally acquired a seriously sophisticated venue in Dettera that could stamp Ambler as a dining destination at last.