January 7, 2010
A few things that Mumbai, India, ingrains in you: a taste for Bollywood, a tolerance of traffic, and a love of chaat , the street food of old Bombay. So I lit up when I saw Desi Chaat, a tiny, West Philly take-out storefront. The samosa had spent a little too long under the heat lamp. But the papri chaat (distinguished by boiled potatoes and chickpeas) made me smile. Your typical chaat employs a mixture of savories, in this case tossed with mango and pomegranate seeds and dotted with yogurt and mint, tamarind-date and plum sauces that you stir into crispy bits made here from (slightly oily)
January 24, 2012
The Asian street-food bandwagon has picked up some Main Line polish, as Nectar chef Patrick Feury has taken the steamed pork bun to a dangerous place: potential addiction. Feury has sourced a perfect bun, a palm-sized white cloud of fold-over pastry. But it's the pork belly inside that got me, which Feury gives the expected fusion approach, the well-trimmed meat rolled up like Italian porchetta, then basted in a dark, gingery Asian braise. Perfectly rendered, but still tender and juicy, the pork roulade is shined with hoisin, then dabbed with sriracha-spiked Kewpie Japanese mayonnaise.
June 7, 2009 |
'Jackets required" is one dining-room edict that's doing a quick fade to endangered status. And while I don't regard my blazer with quite the disdain I have for ties (and the stuffy chokehold they once clamped on upscale dining), it is not a restriction I'm going to miss terribly. After all, the fact that serious cooking is simmering now in more casual venues is one of the great triumphs of America's evolving food scene. Add in a dodgy economy that's put a damper on the high end, and it's no wonder so many gastronomic icons have unbuttoned their double-breasted dress codes to remain relevant.
March 3, 2011
_ It's not National Pancake Week (that was in February), or even National Pancake Day (you just missed it Tuesday), but Max Brenner, Chocolate by the Bald Man (1420 Walnut St., 215-344-8150) wants to celebrate anyway, with some weekend brunch specials: Illegal Chocolate Chocolate Pancakes, with dark chocolate truffle cream, milk chocolate shavings, spiced pecans and caramelized bananas; and Royal Berries Pancakes, with candied blueberries, blood orange maple syrup. _ Philadelphia chef Jose Garces and master brewer Phil Leinhart, of Cooperstown, N.Y.'s Brewery Ommegang, will join forces at JG Domestic (2929 Arch St. at the Cira Centre, 215-222-2363)
June 14, 2013
What to eat: Tacos! Two for $6. Carne Asada (skirt steak), Pollo Asado (chicken) and Al Pastor (roast pork with pineapple). Try the rice and beans ($4), made with fire-roasted tomatoes. Drinks, including Mexican Cola and Jarritos, are $1.50. Don't miss: The homemade sauces are what set this cart apart. They are The Green, The Red and The Ugly, in order of ascending hotness. Green is tomatillo-based, with some poblanos and jalapeños. Red kicks it up a notch with Chile de árbol and pequins.
April 16, 2009
Fans of the old-school Continental elegance that once was Overtures will likely be in for an anti-ambience shock when they step into the old Passyunk Avenue haunt to discover the bare-bones banquet-chair decor of its new tenant. But what the fledgling S&H Kebab House lacks in style, it more than makes up for in flavor and value. This Turkish grill from owners Sal Kucuk (he's the "S") and chef Hussein Yuksel (he's the "H") is all about spot-on, homemade Ottoman classics, and this iskender kebab is one of my favorites.
October 7, 2010
It's more a ripple than a wave, but we'll take it - the uptick in Indian street-food eats beyond the buffet-alley along the Penn campus. There's Desi Chaat House, serving up the fried crisps, chickpeas, and yogurt at 42d and Baltimore. And for steam-table classics, tiny, tidy Mumbai Bistro, at Ninth and Locust. Now say hello to dosas, those grand, paper-thin moons of rice crepes, debuting in the no-frills precincts of the new Philadelphia Chutney Company, 16th and Sansom. There's other South Indian vegetarian fare there (tikka, and idli and uttpa)
November 1, 2012
What is it? The owners of Calypso (formerly of the Chestnut Hill Farmers Market) went mobile last year with Mini Trini, featuring a simple menu of delicacies from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. Real street: Owner Iman Marcano said their most popular item is the traditional street food called double. "The same way you buy hot dogs on the street, [double is] what people are selling on the corners in Trinidad," Marcano said. A double is fried dough (bara) filled with curried chickpeas (chana)
May 17, 2012 |
Here is a weeknight-friendly version of this classic vegetarian Egyptian street food. Koshary Makes 8 servings 1 1/2 cups basmati rice 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon each: cayenne pepper, ground dry ginger 28-ounce can diced tomatoes 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 12 ounces elbow or ditalini pasta 15-ounce can...
October 1, 2011
Three men were arrested in connection with an attempted robbery Tuesday of a corner store in Overbrook in which a clerk was shot in the head, police said Friday. Eric Flood, 25, of the 2200 block of North Salford Street in Overbrook, and Devron Lewis, 24, and Devin Miller, 22, both of Darby Borough, were charged with aggravated assault and related offenses. Miller was charged with attempted murder. Flood and Lewis were charged with attempted criminal homicide. About 11:20 a.m. Tuesday, at the 65th Street Deli Food Market, at 65th Street and Lebanon Avenue, the three men allegedly attempted to rob the store, police said.