April 16, 2009
Fans of the old-school Continental elegance that once was Overtures will likely be in for an anti-ambience shock when they step into the old Passyunk Avenue haunt to discover the bare-bones banquet-chair decor of its new tenant. But what the fledgling S&H Kebab House lacks in style, it more than makes up for in flavor and value. This Turkish grill from owners Sal Kucuk (he's the "S") and chef Hussein Yuksel (he's the "H") is all about spot-on, homemade Ottoman classics, and this iskender kebab is one of my favorites.
November 1, 2012
What is it? The owners of Calypso (formerly of the Chestnut Hill Farmers Market) went mobile last year with Mini Trini, featuring a simple menu of delicacies from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. Real street: Owner Iman Marcano said their most popular item is the traditional street food called double. "The same way you buy hot dogs on the street, [double is] what people are selling on the corners in Trinidad," Marcano said. A double is fried dough (bara) filled with curried chickpeas (chana)
July 10, 2015 |
Opa's new chef, Bobby Saritsoglou, has been on a mission to modernize Greek food by reviving some of its old-school techniques. On the tender octopus platter, for example, some lacto-fermented cauliflower pickles and a garlicky bread- and almond-thickened skordalia sauce show off some throwback moves (modern skordalia, he says, is more commonly thickened with potatoes). House-brined grape leaves get stuffed with grass-fed beef touched with fenugreek and clove. My favorite update, though, is Saritsoglou's reclamation act for gyros.
October 7, 2010
It's more a ripple than a wave, but we'll take it - the uptick in Indian street-food eats beyond the buffet-alley along the Penn campus. There's Desi Chaat House, serving up the fried crisps, chickpeas, and yogurt at 42d and Baltimore. And for steam-table classics, tiny, tidy Mumbai Bistro, at Ninth and Locust. Now say hello to dosas, those grand, paper-thin moons of rice crepes, debuting in the no-frills precincts of the new Philadelphia Chutney Company, 16th and Sansom. There's other South Indian vegetarian fare there (tikka, and idli and uttpa)
December 18, 2015
Congee comfort beyond Chinatown Riffs on Asian street food, from spring rolls to bao, have become common in mainstream restaurants. But the gruel-like rice porridge known as congee had yet to make that leap beyond Chinatown - until now. In Queen Village at the Living Room, which replaced Cups & Chairs in September, Ting Wang was hoping to create her own version of the American-style brunch places that have apparently become trendy in her native China....
June 26, 2015 |
A stack of Vetri family cookbooks sits on a low wall beside the open kitchen at tiny Los Jiménez Cocin on Oregon Avenue as a proud reminder of owner Justino Jiménez's decade-plus of cooking in the Italian kitchens of Vetri and Amis. But his new Cocin (short for cocina) is a pure authentic throwback to Jiménez's taqueria roots before coming to Philly from Mexico in 2001. His specialty, the tacos al pastor you'll see spinning on a vertical spit in back, is especially worth a taste.
May 13, 2010 |
The double R logo on the otherwise generic door doesn't tell you much unless, of course, you're already in the know. Which is presumably the only way you'd find the Ranstead Room, the new cocktail lounge - a stylized speakeasy entered from Ranstead Street, the back alley that stutters across Center City, a half block north of Chestnut. A single pink lightbulb colors the balcony above. You enter a dim antechamber that feels more like an air lock, and emerge into a dark, sedate room, votives flickering, nudes framed, the music determinedly pre-1964, though pop hits have been scrubbed, for the most part, from the playlist.
October 1, 2011
Three men were arrested in connection with an attempted robbery Tuesday of a corner store in Overbrook in which a clerk was shot in the head, police said Friday. Eric Flood, 25, of the 2200 block of North Salford Street in Overbrook, and Devron Lewis, 24, and Devin Miller, 22, both of Darby Borough, were charged with aggravated assault and related offenses. Miller was charged with attempted murder. Flood and Lewis were charged with attempted criminal homicide. About 11:20 a.m. Tuesday, at the 65th Street Deli Food Market, at 65th Street and Lebanon Avenue, the three men allegedly attempted to rob the store, police said.
December 20, 2007
After so many disappointing takeoffs on Philly's beloved soft pretzels - chocolate, sweet, stuffed, etc. - we're happy to report that someone finally got it right. James Barrett's blend of sourdough and whole wheat with fennel seed and anise flavors gives Metropolitan's savory soft pretzels the take-me-home, serve-to-guests quality our favorite street food never quite achieved. Scoop of the year A 7-inch handle lets you dip easily into those slim coffee bags. No more plastic scoops buried in beans.
May 17, 2012 |
Here is a weeknight-friendly version of this classic vegetarian Egyptian street food. Koshary Makes 8 servings 1 1/2 cups basmati rice 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon each: cayenne pepper, ground dry ginger 28-ounce can diced tomatoes 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 12 ounces elbow or ditalini pasta 15-ounce can...