August 22, 2014 |
About a decade ago, when Melissa Monosoff was working as a sommelier at the Four Seasons, she faced plenty of tests - some from the Court of Master Sommeliers, where she obtained the highest possible certification, and others tableside, from skeptical customers. "A lot of times I did have to prove myself," she recalled. "I'd approach people and say, 'I see you're looking at the wine list. Can I help you?' And they'd say, 'Yes. If you could get the sommelier, that'd be great.' " Since then, the city's wine landscape has evolved, and more women are assuming prestigious sommelier posts than ever before.
August 12, 2014 |
They clapped, they whistled, they stamped their feet and called his name - "Ike! Ike! Ike!" - so loudly that the striped bass in the Delaware surely shuddered. And when crowd favorite Mike Iaconelli of Pittsgrove, N.J., stepped to the scales at Penn's Landing on Sunday to weigh his final catch of the four-day Bassmaster Elite Series fishing competition, they went wild. Iaconelli laughed and waved, and handed over his red catch bag to a judge who flopped it on the scales. It was still wriggling with his five catches of the day. Since the national tournament's start on Thursday, Iaconelli - a 42-year-old Philadelphia native - had caught 37 pounds of stripers by the end of Saturday, putting him in the lead.
December 27, 2012
By Lou Rodia The Holiday season has come and gone. Winter has officially arrived. A whole new fishing season lies ahead. Boat schedules are changing. Marinas and tackle shops are operating under curtailed schedules. Anglers should call ahead to confirm sailing schedules and shop hours. Striper season closes Dec. 31 in all New Jersey state waters except from the Atlantic Coast shoreline to 3 miles offshore. Sea bass season will reopen Jan. 1 and will remain open through Feb. 28. Anglers will be allowed 15 sea bass per day with a minimum size of 12.5 in. Blackfish season remains open through Feb. 28 with a 4 fish per day bag limit and a 15 in. minimum size.
September 12, 2012 |
IT SURE beats a pan of paella. Although there's nothing wrong with this rice dish, often served with seafood on a large pan, Maximillian was a better choice. Robert Phillips, a prominent local sculptor who worked in iron, convinced the owners of the Striped Bass restaurant at 15th and Walnut streets in 1994 that a fish named Maximillian would be a better choice as a decorative piece to hide the oven's hood. And what a fish! Bob Phillips' fish is an amazing work of art, 16 feet long, 7 feet wide, 4 feet thick and weighing about 400 pounds.
June 29, 2012 |
Your restaurant is riding high. Day after day, plates of food go out of the kitchen looking beautiful and come back empty. Costs are in line. Employees are happy. Then one day, the chef sits you down. "I'm leaving. " Such is what happened recently at Fork, Ellen Yin's bistro in Old City. Terence Feury, who joined Yin to fanfare in January 2009, said he had a golden opportunity to invest in the renovation of the Old Swedes Inn in Swedesboro, Gloucester County, and to lead its kitchen later this summer when it opens as Tavro 13. Yin might have been surprised, but she could not have been shocked.
July 22, 2010
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat: Reader: I was sad to see Bebe's BBQ close in my neighborhood. That closing drove me to revisit Percy Street for the first time since December. Had a great dinner there and was especially pleased by the delicious sides: white bean salad and German potato salad. Craig LaBan: I was sad too, because he made a pretty good 'cue, mostly because of the fantastic rub. I'm not surprised though - the place was inconsistent and seemed to struggle with the basics of running a business.
September 24, 2009 |
Mike Stollenwerk has a somewhat bigger fish to fry. That would be Fish (1708 Lombard St., 215-545-9600), his larger, liquor-licensed follow-up to his critically acclaimed Little Fish, a BYOB in Bella Vista. Stollenwerk hopes to open next week, licensing permitting. Stollenwerk will be full time at Fish, a 50-or-so-seater that occupies the double storefront in the Graduate Hospital area that for decades was Astral Plane. Sous chef Chad Jenkins is running Little Fish; he's now a partner.
July 20, 2009 |
No one had counted on the fluke. The fluke was a bonus. The real target was the good-eating black sea bass known to be biting off Atlantic City. They congregate over the old shipwrecks five or six miles offshore - easy, almost-guaranteed pickings, which is important if you've promised the freshest fish dinner in the city. That was the hook that Fork, the top-rated Old City bistro, used to reel in a charter boat's worth of customers for its $200 all-inclusive Fisherman's Dinner on Saturday evening.
February 22, 2009 |
From the moody, palm-fringed dining room at Fork, you can view the catch that is Terence Feury, framed in the stainless steel of the open kitchen, dark bistro apron past the knee, shaven head glinting in the light from above. He's a trophy fish, an exceedingly big fish (time at Le Bernardin in New York, top chef jobs with various Ritz-Carltons and, most visibly, before its demise, the city's celebrated Striped Bass), suddenly, though ostensibly contentedly, aswim in a far, far littler pond.
February 15, 2009 |
Before we bury the dear departed Striped Bass beneath a stampede of hungry meat-eaters, let us first pay tribute to the lasting splash of the big fish. In terms of a culinary legacy, there's no denying its impact: In the last year alone, no fewer than 10 chefs reviewed in this column worked at some point behind the lines of Striped Bass' open kitchen. Of course, its closing last year and recent replacement by a less-adventurous concept, a steak house called Butcher & Singer, marked the beginning of the end of an era, too, adding a scratch to the gold-plated culinary ambition of Walnut Street's Restaurant Row. That veneer has since taken a few more scuffs with the recent closing of Brasserie Perrier and news that Susanna Foo, ever the survivor, wasn't above starting to offer home delivery.