October 13, 2011 |
On Saturday, Top Chef winner Kevin Sbraga opens the doors to his Broad Street eatery, Sbraga (440 S. Broad St., 215-735-1913, sbraga.com). Dining tables are reserved for a $45, four-course, prix-fixe-only dinner experience, where guests choose their dishes, such as foie gras soup, or meatloaf with royal trumpet mushrooms. Order a la carte at the bar or chef's counter. Desserts come from his pastry chef wife, Jesmary. Also opened The Avenue of the Arts buzz continues south, where Tashan (777 S. Broad St., 267-687-2170, mytashan.com)
May 2, 2004 |
This is one in an occasional series of profiles of local chefs or restaurant owners. The cutting edge of American cooking is a lot like the history of our country itself: an experiment with different cultures and different ingredients that come together in an exciting way. That is the philosophy of Daniel Stern, former executive chef of Le Bec-Fin, who is poking around the area for the right space to open a place of his own. "What is...
June 4, 2009 |
It was a bit of a surprise all around last fall when Martin Hamann showed up in the sprawling kitchen of Philadelphia's old-line Union League. The accomplished chef, a product of Morton, Delaware County (where his father ran a bakery specializing in Danish and after-church pastries), had spent fully half his 50 years at the classy Four Seasons hotel, working his way up from apprentice to top chef. He'd ascended to that post in 2001 when his friend and mentor Jean-Marie Lacroix stepped down.
December 26, 2010 |
Matt Ridgway calls the slabs that come out of his curing room at PorcSalt, simply, bacon. Which doesn't quite tell the whole story. That the pork bellies come from flavorful, old breeds - Berkshire and Berkshire-Duroc crosses, that last one from Breakway Farms in Mount Joy. That it is cured in the Bucks County honey his father, Josef, collects. Or alternatively - for 10 days - with red Burgundy wine. Or that it is, by design, hot-smoked for 10 hours over fruitwood at temperatures 10 degrees higher than name brands, which renders it (unlike commercial bacons)
September 1, 2011
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat: Reader: Gut feeling, how do you think Tryst will be received? C.L. : I've been out of town since Tryst opened as a replacement for Le Bar Lyonnais below Le Bec, so obviously, I haven't had a chance yet to visit. I think it's a good idea to give Le Bec a fresh draw - even downstairs - and chef Nicholas Elmi certainly has the talent worth highlighting. Lyonnais was a great spot for well-cooked bistro classics (quenelles, steak frites, etc.)
September 14, 2012 |
WASHINGTON - Philadelphia's capital culinary cred was on display here last week, when seven area chefs were named to the American Chef Corps, a new State Department program engaging the country's top toques to foster diplomacy among nations. Chef Joe Cicala of Le Virtú, who was thrilled to be tapped along with some of his "culinary heroes," believes this is an opportunity for him to serve his country with what he does best. Chef Jean-Marie Lacroix, the old-guard French master at the restaurant that still bears his name after his departure, considers it a chance to show the world how far American cuisine has evolved.
January 19, 2012 |
ASK MOST siblings what they like to do together, and breaking down a 200-pound hog isn't usually at the top of the list. Unless the siblings in question are brother/sister chefs Evan and Marcie Turney. The Turneys share a passion for food: Evan is executive chef at Mercato and Varga Bar, which he co-owns; Marcie, along with partner Val Safran, owns Barbuzzo, Lolita and the new Jamonera on 13th Street, among other businesses. So it's not too surprising that the Turneys' idea of a fab brother-sister bonding experience was to enroll in Fleisher's Meats' Butchery 101, a knives-on, five-day artisanal butchering course offered at the well-regarded, family-owned Hudson Valley shop.
September 14, 2012 |
"HELL'S KITCHEN" Season 10 champ Christina Wilson knows the secret to winning a reality-TV competition. The secret is simple. And it's not in the sauce. Last spring, Wilson, 32, temporarily left her job cooking at popular Center City BYOB Mercato to appear alongside brash chef Gordon Ramsay in "Hell's Kitchen," Fox TV's version of "Top Chef" meets "Survivor. " For weeks, the South Philly resident sautéed, filleted, garnished and groaned among a cast of 18 chef-testants - until, at last, there were two. Then, just one. Her. Monday night, the show's final episode aired.
May 28, 2009 |
NEW YORK - Dan Barber emerges one recent afternoon from the Union Square Greenmarket with a spring bounty: asparagus, purple kohlrabi, ramps, fiddlehead ferns and dandelion greens. They're luscious, fresher-than-fresh and Barber can't wait to get them into the kitchen. When he does, what will he do with them? The answer is pure Dan Barber. "Not a lot," he says with a smile, sipping iced coffee near the market. "As I get better and better as a chef, I'm doing less and less.
November 4, 2010 |
It was a fine soiree at the Union League last month, champagne flutes bobbing across what was once the North Marble Dining Room, diver scallops seared and plated one by one, and at the caviar station, three types of caviar, best sampled, guests were instructed, by dabbing a dollop just below the first knuckle of the index finger, "the way they taste it in Tashkent. " It was the first anniversary of the 148-year-old club's brave new plunge into finer dining - evident in a $6 million face-lift of the once dreary space; and in a curtain call for snowy-domed Martin Hamann, the League's Doc Halladay of a new chef.