September 3, 1987 |
Hey mon, know where to get some fooood . . . Jamaican food? Uhuru, jus nort o' Market on 52nd Street, das where. The heady smells of incense and the pulsating reggae music usher you into a narrow store selling Caribbean produce, groceries and lots of Jamaican record alblums. The small, simple dining room is in the rear. Uhuru is the place to go if your sense of adventure includes eating things like tripe, goat, and a very strange looking dish called ackee. Start with one of several exotic non-alcoholic drinks.
June 24, 2016 |
Most of the customers at Stargazy, chef Sam Jacobson's British pie-and-mash shop, come in very hungry and leave very happy. Most. "I've had a woman throw a tantrum here," says the relocated Londoner, who opened last fall on East Passyunk Avenue. The trigger for her freak-out: spotting the word tripe on Stargazy's menu board. Jacobson had made a pie filled with bits of the beef stomach, slow-cooked in the French style with cider, cream, brandy, mustard, and herbs, as a daily special.
March 10, 1999 |
The meat cleaver falls with a sharp, swift, bone-cracking sound, separating the chicken into two sections and punctuating the conversation. Chuck Cambria trims some fat from the bird, gives it a neat, clean-cut look, and - in what seems like one unbroken motion - wraps it politely in butcher paper. He's been at his South Philadelphia butcher shop for so many years he can trim steaks, grind beef and pound veal paper-thin while talking with customers or answering the phone. This day he's talking about tripe.
July 17, 1996 |
Yo, Chefs! My family and I love the pepper pot soup from Vitale's Restaurant, in the vicinity of Cottman and Bustleton avenues. They serve it on Thursdays. It is the best I have tasted. Would it be possible to get the recipe? James Tarlton Oxford Circle Dear James, Dave Green, the chef at Vitale's, serves an Italian-American version of pepper pot soup. More traditional renderings of the meal-in-a-bowl soup have been a Philadelphia staple for at least 200 years, since the days when the city traded goods and recipes with the West Indies.
April 15, 2016
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat of April 12, 2016: Reader: Where do you go for comfort food? Craig LaBan: Comfort food and its updates have been a staple on the dining scene over the last few years as restaurants strive for good food in more casual atmospheres. Gastropubs, funky brunchers, many of these retro-theme restaurants - all of them trade in some kind of comfort cooking (think Bud & Marilyn's). I believe Hungry Pigeon ( see review from last weekend)
January 22, 2016 |
Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat of Jan. 19, 2016: Reader: Unless you're saving it for review (!), how does the Shake Shack chicken sandwich compare to Chick-fil-A or Federal Donuts? Craig LaBan: No formal review planned. But after first experiences with both sandwiches, I'd have to give my nod to Shake Shack. FedNuts had more interesting flavors going on. But the meat inside was overcooked and a tad stringy. The Shake Shack sandwich was spot-on . . . so crisp on the outside, and really, really juicy inside and very well built from top to bottom.
December 21, 1988 |
Q. Can you give me the calorie count for uncooked oat bran? Donna Durrer, Portland, Ore. A. Oat bran has only recently become a very hot item and therefore is not listed yet in any of the calorie tables that I've checked, and not even a miller who supplies oat bran in bulk to health food stores knew the answer. The closest reference that I have been able to find is in Barbara Kraus' book "Calories and Carbohydrates," which lists Kellogg's Cracklin' Oat Bran cereal. Whether the calorie content of this cereal is the same as oat bran bought in bulk remains to be seen.
January 9, 1998 |
For those friends of pho always searching for a different spot to enjoy this traditional Vietnamese beef-and-noodle soup and its numerous variations, there is Pho 97, on the west end of Chinatown. This is not to be confused with Pho 75, the chain out of Virginia, which has two restaurants in town. Or Pho 79, a Vietnamese restaurant that used to operate near Ninth Street. The folks at Pho 97 say they decided on their name because the restaurant opened in 1997. (And just maybe because Pho 75 - 1975 was the start of the Vietnamese exodus - has been so successful.
June 16, 1995 |
When you leave Sam's Cobblestone Restaurant with your leftovers wrapped in foil and tucked inside a brown bag, it's not unusual for you to get instructions on how best to reheat them at home. Sam's also is the kind of place where the servers cater to your whims as if you were a long-lost relative. All of which helps to make this South Philadelphia restaurant a good bet, especially at those times when you feel like giving up the likes of sun-dried tomatoes, portobello mushrooms, and risotto for things such as scungilli salad and tripe.
April 19, 2009 |
Over the years, I've received a lot of tempting invitations to fabulous events I couldn't attend. I've simply embraced the "no, thank you" reflex as one of the unfortunate yet requisite drawbacks of being a reclusive critic. A recent invitation to a Szechuan New Year's banquet, though, organized by local members of the online gastro-club eGullet, got me to hesitate on the "yes" button a little longer than usual. True Szechuan food is such a rarity in this area, I wasn't fazed by the far-flung locale: Han Dynasty resides at the end of a poky drive up to Royersford.